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How To - Replace Fiero Ignition Switch PDF Print E-mail
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Thank you to Josh for this excellent write-up on replacing the Fiero Ignition Switch

Here is what went in the car:

Autozone:

Part Number: LS512
Weight: 0.45 lbs.
Application: With automatic transmission
With tilt wheel

Some things I don't have pics of because I was in a hurry.....Sorry    :(

Tools I used:
1/4 wrachet with-----
7mm socket
5/16 deep socket
3/8 socket

3/4 wrachet with-----
1/4 extension
15mm deep socket
14mm socket

Jeweler's phillips screwdriver

Unhook your neg on the battery.  Take the 7mm and unscrew the 4 small bolts that hold the trim underneath the steering column.  Careful, they are in plastic that might strip out.  Now,  2 15mm nuts in the back, 2 15mm bolts in the front.  Can't miss them and they are in there good.  I did the back nuts then went to the front.  You may do it a little different as I ended up resting it on my head after I got them out    :(.  I layed it on the seat as it was balanced well there.  From there you'll see 4 14mm gold colored bolts that need to come out.  They are also in there good.  Take the bracket and bolts and sent them aside.  Now the switch I got said to put the ignition in the accessory position.  Like if you just wanted to listen to the radio.  Do that now and leave it like that.  Now for stuff I have pics of!

Here is a manual column:


Manual and Automatic ones have different switches.


Manual:



Auto:



Now to unplug the connectors on the old ignition switch.  Your not going to see them very well from the drivers side.  Here they are with the tangs marked:



Undo the black connector first, its the easiest.  DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES!

Then undo the blue connector.  Its the hardest to get out.  You may have to bend the thin metal cage that holds the blue connector where the tabs are held in.

Now, to remove the switch from the column.  My pics are for the manual column but I also use the auto switch too.

Remove 3/8 nut off left of switch:



Remove 5/16 bolt from the right.  Notice that the high beam switch will come loose from the column.  If you've left the connector on it like i did, it will just hang there.  Just move it aside.



Now, remove the remaining 5/16 bolt from the switch.  It will come loose now.  Pull it straight up.



MANUAL'S SKIP DOWN

If you have an auto like I did.  There is one more thing we have to do.  There is a cable on the side of that switch that need to go onto the new switch.  Here is how.

Use your jewelers phillips head and remove these 2 screws on both new and old switches:



The tab you need to release is right here.  Mine isn't in there but you'll see it.  Push it down and the cable will come out.


Snap the cable in the new housing and get the two screws back in it.  There is a tab to help seat the housing:



FOR BOTH AUTO AND MANUAL

Fun part now.  Your switch was in the accessory position when we took it out.  Make sure the new switch is in the same position as the old one:

See that little place where the arrow points too?  Thats where the rod will slid into:



Line it up and slide it onto the rod.  Becareful not to move the switch as you put it on.  It will knock it out of accessory.



Now, carefully put the 5/16 double theaded bolt in on the left and tighten:



Put the high beam switch on its on rod and on the double theaded 5/16 bolt.  You may see where the mark the nut left on the high beam to help line it up:



Put the small 5/16 bolt into the right side and tighten.  As you do this the switch's will try and move.  Try and keep them steady and in the same spot:


Now put the 3/8 nut on the double theaded bolt and carefully tighten:



Hook up the connections starting with the blue connector.  Then do the black.  If they are seated good and no movement is in the switches, its time to turn the key into the "lock" position.  You'll see the rod slide and the switch click.  Connect the neg to the battery and try to start the car.  I was careful and put the switch on the exact way the old one came off.  If your's does not start, you'll have to adjust the ignition switch untill you get the right position.    If all is good, try all positions: on, off(unlocked), off(locked), and accessory.  Also make sure your high beam is working also.  On autos, shift through the gears.  You'll see that cable you attached to the new switch go in.  Make sure you can ONLY start the car in park and neutral.  Bolt every back up starting with the 4 gold bolts and bracket.  Put the column back up and start with the 2 rear nuts.  Just get them on there to hold it and then start with the front 2 bolts.  Watch the wires so the do not bind when you put the column back up.  If its column is up nice and tight, put the trim backup with the 7mm bolts.  Carefull not to strip the plastic hold spots.  I doesn't take much.

The difference from old switch to new switch was amazing.  I had so much slop in the old one, no wonder I had problems with no starts.  2 out of 5 times it would not start.  I tried the new one 10 times, drove it up the road, came back and turned it on and off a few more times.  No more "no starts".  Hope this helps someone.

I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR CAR!  THIS IS WHAT I DID TO FIX MINE.  THANK YOU.


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