That's the thing, i couldn't remember if was called the butterfly or not. After awhile they tend to collect gunk and stick, especially at higher mileage as you can get a lot of crap coming from the PCV into the air cleaner. My dad's Indy had so much junk it was stuck closed and needed some serious cleaning.

Try disconnecting the cable from the TB bracket and try turning the TB by hand. Also try moving the cable by hand, to see where the problem is. On mine, each one would move freely on its own, but when I connected them I got binding.

That's alright, i remember you do have some decent pics of your car with the camera phone.  Your car is an excellent example of typical Fiero issues, shift cables, calipers, throttle cable, etc. Would be good to have a thread about it.

Any pics you can take during repairs are always a plus 

Mine was very much like that even after I replaced the cable, once the tension of the return spring was connected it started to bind, believe part of it was the mechanism connecting the cable to the throttle body, it was twisting and binding up.

Also try checking the throttle plate itself, the 2M4's are known for collecting crap in the TB that can cause it to stick.

By the way, feel free to start a thread of your own car, or anything else for that matter

just thought to add, watch out if your cable is frayed, hurts like a bastard to get stuck with the stuff. Especially when it jams under your fingernails 

Maybe wear gloves when you are pulling out the old one.

Around 90,000 original miles. The car started up instantly after sitting not running or driving for 8 years. All i had to do was replace the fuel pump and it started right up. Right now it can be completely cold and it will start the instant you touch the key.

I may very well be doing a motor swap, probably a N*, but I start it up every week and let it run for a while to try and keep it going in case I don't do the swap.

As far as i know it would be near-identical. You do not in fact need to remove the entire console skeleton to get at the cable, I removed it only to make it as easy as possible. I believe the 85 uses the same throttle design so install and removal should be simple. The cable may be a different length on yours.

 In any case, it is a simple enough job once you have everything removed and out of your way it should not be hard to figure it out.

Some pics of a 88 Formula I picked up for $300, soon to be choptop.
I had to dig it out of a guy's backyard, it had been sitting since there since 1998.

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This guide is written with the intent to allow anyone, regardless of experience perform this job. As a result i will be describing each step in detail with pics to make the job as easy as possible.

Recommended Tools:

• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Wide Blade Flathead
• 7mm driver
• 10mm driver
• Torx Driver
• Pair of light-duty pliers

Required Parts:
Fiero Store Throttle Cable:
http://tinyurl.com/lsczx


Indications Cable Requires Replacement:

• Heavy resistance on pedal, even though throttle moves freely by hand
• Jerky changes in speed
• Engine does not immediately idle down on pedal release

I began by removing all interior components that would be in the way, namely the entire center console and support skeleton.

Process:


1. Remove Shifter Center Console

• Remove Shift Knob/Handle: Standard simply unscrews, Automatic has a pin that must be pulled in the front.
• Remove the ashtrays and remove the 4 7mm screws
  
  
• Remove the 3 7mm filler plate screws and the 2 7mm armrest screws. If you have power windows/mirrors carefully disconnect the switches after pulling up the plate.
  
  
  
  
  
• Remove Armrest/Glovebox
• Remove 2 Torx screws holding down the Lighter/Communications cover
  
  
• Remove 2 Phillips screws holding the cigarette lighter
  
  
• Remove 2 7mm screws holding the communications port
  
• Remove 2 7mm screws behind the glovebox Note for reinstall: These two screws will be longer than the rest
  
  
  
  
• Remove ECM
• Loosen, do not remove the 4 10mmNuts holding down the ECU. Do not disconnect it!
  
  
• Carefull set the ECM aside behind the driver's seat. Be careful not to pull to hard on any of the wires.
• Remove Stereo/Vent Console
• Remove the 4 Torx Screws holding on the face plate and carefully pry it away at the green arrows, being sure to avoid bending the plate.
  
  
• Remove the 5 7mm screws holding on the vinyl surround. Carefully pull the vinyl back and up and put safely aside.
  
  
• Remove the 4 7mm screws holding down the stereo and the 3 7mm screws holding down the environmental controls. Carefully slide the radio out and unplug the wiring harness from the rear.
  
  
• Carefully slide the environment controls out and unplug the two wiring harnesses.

• Underneath the environment controls you must remove 1 7mm screw (red) and metal retainer(green). The metal retainer can be carefully worked off with the pair of pliers. Note: While the screw is a 7mm, it is a different thread type and depth than all the others, be sure not to lose it or confuse with another 7mm screw.
  
  
  
  
  
• Remove Center Console Skeleton
• Remove 4 7mm screws (red) and 2 10mm Screws (green)
  
  
• Remove Side pop-retainers on both sides. Use a wide blade flathead or equivalent to carefully pop the retainers out. There are two hidden torwards the front of the console underneath the carpet. Be careful not to crack the skeleton!
  
  
• Remove carpet clips on rear of skeleton. Use a flathead or equivalent to carefully unhook and remove the 4 clips holding the carpet to the rear of the skeleton.

• Peel back the wires from the communications terminal and the cigarette lighter, careful not to strain them.
• Remove the 1 7mm screw holding the middle of the skeleton, by the shifter.
  
  
• Remove the 2 10mm screws holding down the rear of the skeleton.
  
  
• Remove the 2 light housings located by the shifter to the left and right.
  
  
  
• carefully Lift up the rear of the skeleton and slide to back, lift the skeleton out of the car and set it aside. Note: You should set the skeleton on a flat surface, so the entire bottom edge is resting flat to avoid breaking it.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Removal of cable in the Rear: Now we will remove the cable from the throttle body so as to allow for more freeplay in the cable when removing it from the pedal.
• Remove throttle cable retaining clip. Use a screwdriver and pop off the small round clip, be careful not to lose it.

• Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body bracket. You will have to reach below the bracket to remove the clip. The picture shows the cable already removed so you can see the clip.

• Removal of the cable from the car
• Disassemble the Gas Pedal. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the gas pedal in place.
  
  
• Rotate pedal upwards, then slide it out to the left as shown in the picture.

• Unclip the plastic retainer holding in the cable and slide the cable out the slot in the pedal arm.

• Unclip the forward cable retainer(Underneath where your stereo used to be). Use one hand to squeeze the clips top and bottom, and the other to pull the cable.

• Remove the rear grommet(underneath where your ECM was) Note: Do not attempt to remove the grommet by pulling on the grommet, it will just slide through. You need to pull or cut the grommet itself, the Fiero Store cable includes one.

• Pull the cable from the rear into the car. Because of the odd routing of the cable in the engine bay, you will probably find it easier if you push the outside cable down closer to the exhaust manifold. Be careful! If your cable is frayed watch out for metal slivers/wires! Don't forget that as you pull the cable in, it will be snaking around your interior! Watch that it doesn't damage anything. You may wish to have it go out one of the doors as you pull it.
  
  
  
• Routing the new cable
• Feed the new cable from the interior back out into the engine compartment. Roll up the heat insulation to make sure it doesn't get caught. Do not attempt to push the whole length through from the inside. You will need to push some through, step outside and guide the wire, then push some more through. Continue until the cable is roughly in the correct location relative to the throttle body.

• Feed the new cable down to the gas pedal, clip it into place.

• Reach behind the pedal and pull out the cable. Feed the cable through the slot in the pedal and clip in the plastic retainer. The retainer has a groove that must line up with the slot in pedal. Make sure you have the cable facing the correct way.

• Reinstall the pedal: plastic bracket in back, then pedal, metal retainer in front. Make sure you do not have the new cable caught in any wires underneath the dash.

• Connect the cable in the rear. Clip in the cable retainer on the throttle body.
• Connect the end of the cable to the throttle.

Now test the pedal to make sure that it goes all the way down, and when released the throttle goes all the way down. If you find binding or resistance, check the routing of the cable and adjust it to be as smooth as possible. Turns should be made smoothly to ensure free movement of the cable. Make sure that the retainers in the front and rear are fully seated and engaged. Check to make sure the cable isn't caught by the pedal. Make sure that the throttle body itself moves smoothly.

If the cable operates to your satisfaction, you can begin reassembly of your interior, simply reverse my directions.

I am interested in any questions/comments you may have!

Given the age of our vehicles, fuel pump failure is both common and expected. The actual job of replacing the pump is fairly easy, given the right supplies and preparation.

Disclaimer: I offer this only as a guide showing the steps I used to replace the fuel pump. As always, use caution and common sense when working on your vehicle! I am not responsible for issues that may arise in your following of this guide!

That aside, I will gladly answer any questions you may have, and try help with any problems you may encounter.

You may notice discrepencies in the pictures, as they were not necesarily taken in order. The steps i describe however, will be accurate.

Required Supplies:

• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Strainer (sock)

Recommended Supplies:

• Fuel filler neck hose:

http://tinyurl.com/jpxl4

• Replacement tank straps & bolts:

http://tinyurl.com/jae6k

• Replacement Fuel Filter:

http://tinyurl.com/l2pvm

• New 5/16 Fuel, non-injection hose, 36" is enough. Less on 84

Process:

1. Relieve Fuel Pressure:

• Remove the Fuel Pump fuse and start the car. Allow it to stall, repeat until the car will not start, then turn the engine over for 3 seconds.

2. Disconnect the Battery
3. Raise the Car: You can raise only the rear and do this job, however i found it easier to raise the whole car.

• Jack up the front of the car, use jacks or ramps to support it.

• Jack up the rear of the car and place jackstands under the cradle. Important: Keep in mind that as you jack up the car the jack will try to pull it torwards you, make sure that the jack rolls forward and the car doesn't roll back!
  
  
  
• Shake the car by hand to ensure that it is steady on the stands/ramps

4. Dropping the Fuel Tank:

• Disconnect The fuel pump in the Engine Bay, and push the wires down torwards the tank:

84 Pontiac Fiero, Two connections, one two wire and one single wire:


Later Model Fieros, One 3 Wire Connector, Looking Down by the right decklid hinge:

• Remove the large Center plate, held in with 4 short bolts.

• Place a jack under the tank, slightly torwards the rear. You may want to place a block of wood between the tank and jack. Note the position of the jack relative to the rear tank strap.

• Remove the nuts holding the straps, if you have not done this before expect the nuts to be stuck. For this reason i highly recommend buying the replacement bolts.

• Bend the straps down out of the way.

• Lower the tank slightly and push it torwards the front of the car. You may have to gently pry it out.

• Disconnect the two large hoses:

• 84 Fiero: Slide the tank farther forward and disconnect The following three hoses:

• Later Fieros: Slide the tank farther forward and disconnect the following two hoses:

• Still with the later model, looking down from above the engine bay, reach down and disconnect the following hose, just below the pump connector:

• Begin to lower the tank using the jack, watching to make sure any hoses/electrical lines do not get caught as you let it down.

• At this point make sure the tank, and all related hoses and wires are completely free of the vehicle. You should be able to hold the tank with one hand, and pull the jack out with the other.

5. Removing/Replacing The Fuel Pump

• Remove the locking mechanism on the pump assembly by rotating it counter-clockwise. Do not use a screwdriver or other metal object that may spark! A brass punch works well, or if unavailable, a piece of wood.
  
  
  
• Carefully remove the fuel pump/sender assembly. It is easy to damage the sender unit. This is what it looks like outside the tank:

• Disconnect the plug from the top of the pump, behind the sender assembly.

• Remove the strainer(sock) from the bottom of the pump, it is held in place only by metal barbs.

• You should be able to pull the pump up, then out of the assembly.
• Install the new pump into the assembly, and reconnect the plug.
• Install the strainer on the bottom of the pump, it just pushes on. Ensure that it will not interfere with the movement of the fuel level float.
• Reinstall the assembly in the tank using a new gasket.
• If you are replacing the hoses now is a good time to install them on the sending unit. Remember: The large outlet is the high pressure line and requires two hose clamps! Leave plenty of extra hoseso you can trim it when you reinstall it!

On the left is the 84 unit and on the right is the 88.




6. Reinstalling the Tank

• Slide the tank back under the car and prop it up on top of a jack, raising the end with the hose connections close to its final location, but leaving room to work on the hoses.

88 Fiero V6, the small hose up top is the vent hose that runs back to the engine bay:

• Raise the tank up so you can reconnect the two large hoses. I suggest raising the tank just short of being fully in, so you can pull on the tank to help seat the hoses.

• Raise the tank fully into position. You may need to use some force to get it past the heating/ac line brackets. Reattach the two metal straps.

• Reinstall the Center bracket. Once the tank is secured by the two straps remove the jack and reinstall the center bracket. You may wish to use sealant on the bolts.

• If you had the long vent hose into the engine bay connect it now.

• Reconnect the fuel pump wires.

84:


88:




7. Testing

• Reconnect the battery.
• Turn to key to run. You should hear the fuel pump kick in for 2 seconds,  if not check the fuse under the dash, and the connections in the engine bay. If they are good your relay may have failed. You can test the pump independently of the relay using the ALDL terminal in the center console. If it doesn't run then, you may have forgotton to connect the wires to the fuel pump itself.
• Look under the car to ensure no fuel is coming out, you should not smell fuel.
• Start the car!
• <a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/aJnXTphNVUM&rel=1" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/aJnXTphNVUM&rel=1</a>